Blog Feed

Tweet upon leaving Africa:

Fabulous fabulous time @EwasoLions. Thank you ! Thank you! Am so glad I got to know you and look forward to seeing all of you again!

Sadly we finished our last game drive today. We had a short drive and honestly didn’t expect to see much except a lot of wildebeests and zebras. However we saw a new mammal for us – a hartebeest. And we watched two 4-5 yr old male lions hunt  and successfully kill an injured wildebeest. The wildebeest had a broken leg, had been left behind by his herd and really had no chance for survival. When he saw the lions he actually walked toward them. Thus this was an easier hunt to watch than the cheetah hunt for the wildebeest calf.  The lions were fascinating. They were so patient, waiting for just the right moment; then one of them crouched down, slowly creeped up and then spring forward in a burst of speed. The icing on the cake were these were two new lions for us.

Our final count is 38 different species of mammals, 35 species of birds and 2 reptiles.

Our final lion count is AMAZING. We saw 121 different individual lions. This includes 42 cubs, 29 subadults (teenagers), 7 adult males and 43 females.

We have learned the pride structure here and know the names of the lions in each pride. We got to know the lions so well that we are very worried right now. Since we have been here two male lions have kicked two others entirely out of the conservancy. The females from those prides are on the run with their cubs with no male to protect them. Our guide has promised to update us as events unfold.

It has been fascinating following lion dynamics. I’ve learned to age lions quite well by sight and we can both recognize lions we have seen before.

We loved every minute here. Nothing went wrong. No problems. We just loved Africa and the people we have met. We have made a lifelong friend here and really want to return. In fact we have already laid the groundwork for our return trip in 2016.

I will miss Kenya.

Today was our last full day on safari. We left as usual before sunrise and ate breakfast in the bush. We have eaten breakfast in the bush every day except one. We stayed out all day and ate lunch in the bush too. Our guide took us to the top of a hill where we could see the entire Mara. We could even see Tanzania.

It rained hard yesterday and everything was muddy today. Our guide can take our 4×4 anywhere-he even forged a river with rushing water!

We continued our pursuit of lions  seeing a gorgeous male, several moms and many subadults (2-4 yr) and the cutest cubs- the youngest only a few weeks old.  We have one more game drive in the morning so I will save the final lion tally until then.

After our game drive we take a flight to Nairobi. We will have to trade the sound of hippos outside our tent for the noise of the city and the safety of being a few feet from lions for the tight security of Nairobi. We loved the bush and wish our trip was just beginning rather than ending.

Day 1: Maasai Mara.

This area of Kenya is completely different from northern Kenya. Here are wide open Savannahs. The migration is going on and so I knew there would be a lot of wildebeests and zebras but I really had no idea what that meant. There are hundreds of thousands. Everywhere you go there are wildebeests – young always following their mothers and they move as a herd single file.

At the end of our first 24 hours we have seen 58 different lions including 19 cubs–3 only about 2 weeks old. Last night our first night here we lay in bed and heard hyenas, hippos and LIONS!  We head two female lionesses talking back and forth. We found out later one is hidden near the camp with newborn cubs so we think her sister was checking on her!

The highlight of the day happened early this morning when we found 3 moms & 7 4-mo old cubs feeding on a wildebeest (which they had killed before we arrived ) Two moms were eating with the cubs and one was standing guard keeping 10 2-yr olds at bay until the cubs were finished.  After quite a while 2 moms & the cubs left leaving one mom to eat. A 2 yr old lioness came close and the mom dragged what remained of the wildebeest to within 5 feet of our 4×4. Then the other moms and cubs came back and they all ate right there so close to us!  The cubs finished again and the mom dragged the wildebeest up to the side of our 4×4-she was touching the tire! I could have reached out and touched her!  It was awesome!

Later we saw our first hyenas eating a freshly killed wildebeest (they are everywhere–the carnivores do not have to work hard, unlike those in northern Kenya.) About 20 vultures were milling about the hyena trying to get in on the action. We also rounded a corner today to a sea of stampeding wildebeest. A lioness had just caught one and we watched her for a bit.

We were out for 12 hours today and had lunch at the Mara River. We witnessed a crossing of wildebeests and zebras all very confused. The wildebeests had already crossed and went back. The zebras went back and forth a few times. At one point a zebra who was crossing the correct way stopped in the middle of the river and stared at 3 zebras going the wrong way!

Day 2

We witnessed a massive crossing of wildebeests – about 10,000 (& 4 zebras) & I’m not exaggerating. They came stampeding down to the river. They funnel the ought a tiny space, down a steep bank, across the river & up another steep bank, all running at top speed. If anyone slipped he would be trampled to death. I understand now why people talk about the migration.

Another highlight was watching 7 lion cubs & their mothers for about an hour. These were the same cubs we saw eating a wildebeest. I was really pleased to see they act no different than the cubs at the zoo and are every bit as cute.

We also saw 2 lions mate! BTW did you know elephants sleep lying down – and they snore? We witnessed that, too! We also found the lioness who is hiding her cubs near our tent. We hear her roaring every night along with a sister who comes to visit.

On our trip so far we have seen 72 different lions, 22 of which are cubs.

______________________________________________________________

Day 3

We watched a cheetah hunt and kill. We said in the plane over we wanted to see a cheetah run at top speed but did not expect to have that chance-and we did! The hunting technique of cheetahs is very different from lions and leopards. Yesterday we saw a leopard try to hunt a guinea hen. It was sneaking up on it when baboons saw it & called out a warning and the leopard turned around. To the contrary the two cheetahs were just strolling about openly in the midst of a herd of wildebeest. The wildebeest circled the cheetahs putting the young  on the outside. They kept moving, and the cheetahs at  jogging pace would have been fast running for any other animal. They took their time choosing their target and really there was nothing the wildebeests could do to get away. Finally they burst forth in a blazing sprint and quickly took down a wildebeest calf. It was absolutely amazing to see the speed. I knew they were fast but witnessing a cheetah at top speed cannot be explained. Then while they were consuming it a baboon started walking toward them. One cheetah quit eating to watch. When the baboon kept coming the cheetah jumped toward him, stamped his foot twice and the baboon turned around.

This morning we also watch an unsuccessful attempt of 2-yr old lions trying to take down a cape buffalo (these small lions did choose the biggest bull in the herd). The buffalo behavior was interesting. They put their calves in the center and the largest bills moved to the outside facing the lions.

We moved camps today and had fun watching 5 lion cubs. Then we saw a black rhino–the oldest in southern Kenya. It was huge and the scariest animal we have seen. There are only 35 in all of southern Kenya.

Until today all the kills we have seen have been animals who were already dead when we arrived on the scene. That has not been too hard for me. After all we buy dead chickens and dead cows and I watch the lions eat dead rabbits at the zoo. And while it was awesome today to watch a cheetah run at top speed, it was very difficult to watch the wildebeest calf die. I really don’t care to witness that again. It’s the reason I don’t watch wildlife shows on television.

Up to 83 different lions including 27 cubs. We will be out for 12 hours tomorrow, eating breakfast and lunch in the bush.

Out at 6 again this morning to help with a wildlife count. We drove through a section of public land set aside for wildlife. Shivani and her team do a weekly count of mammals in the area. As she was showing us an elephant on the river our guide yelled out “wild dogs” and we quickly turned around to follow them. There were 10 wild dogs on a hunt. You would not believe how fast they run, quietly, in a straight line. Wild dogs are the 2nd most endangered animal in Africa and it is unusual to see them. So we were off racing to follow the dogs. Of course they went where the 4×4 could not go, so we stopped. We could hear them calling the pack together. They sound like an owl. Or guide is good and he found them. We watched them com to a resting spot and settle in. We stayed about 30 mins. It was so cool.

Then we found a breakfast spot. Today we were really out in the bush. We were not on a National Reserve but really out in the wild country. We will be going back this evening.

Now as we sit and wait for lunch on our patio. We spotted from here an elephant, 3 camels and a monkey.

I want to describe northern Kenya. It is remote. They go four hours to get food and two to get fuel for the car. There is no mail service here. Internet is only at the tourist lodges. We are completely away from everything. The local people walk everywhere. There is very little water, only one shallow river. Shivani and her team use a total of 10 gallons of water per day. 7 people–10 gallons for washing and drinking. Everything a mammal does is for survival and it is not an easy life.  This is high desert, and I find deserts strangely beautiful.

This afternoon we helped make paper lions and animal paw print stamps they will use for World Lion Day Sunday. Then a camel ride! Up to Sundowner rock – a rock overlooking the entire valley from which you can see the sunset. In a few minutes our final dinner here with Shivani.

I am very sad to leave here – though we are going to where there are a whole lot of lions!  I knew I’d find this adventure amazing but I didn’t expect to make a new friend – and I have.

We leave at 6 am for a new camp, and we will not have Internet access there. I’ll be silent for awhile.

Each day gets better than the previous! Today we saw or cheetah with a kill. She had just taken it to her cubs. We were so glad since she had looked hungry and thin. Then we saw an elusive leopard with her kill up in a tree. So exciting. We next had our bush breakfast. And just when we thought it couldn’t get any better—

We went back to the spot where a dead elephant lay in shallow water. We knew lions had fed there the night before. The elephant died Tuesday of natural causes. He was a young bull elephant who has just wandered into the reserve sick where he died. (BTW- the rangers cut the tusks off so no one would take them. This is Kenyan law. It also applies to lion, cheetah and leopard skin and lion claws. When any of those animals die, rangers come in and remove parts so they may not be sold. Also, did you know hunting is against the law everywhere in Kenya? Anyway I digress …)

We went back to the elephant and watched a huge crocodile eat a large section. Then we watched other crocs try to come in. A lone male lion, Lguret (pronounced Gret–8 yrs old) appeared on the opposite bank. We watched a standoff between the crocs, Gret, and a Marabou (a 5 ft. tall stork that scavenges) for THREE hours! There was no fighting but a lot of posturing, some growling and slapping , with Gret letting everyone know it was his elephant. Loved loved it!

We stayed out from 6 am – 4 pm. Then at 5 we went on a walk through the bush — an armed guard accompanied us. We walked through a dry river bed looking at tracks and trees and poop! At one point we had to cross a small pond. The warrior and guard found stones and made us a stepping stone path across the pond.

We were so honored tonight that Shivani had us over for dinner at her camp. We ate with her and some of her team-six Samburu warriors. She also showed us around the tent  including inside her own. We were able to listen to them talk about their sightings that day and future projects over dinner. The camp consists of 6 tents plus a wooden structure that houses a kitchen, storehouse and dining/meeting area. There are no fences or barriers. We felt like we were attending a family dinner and felt extremely welcomed by all and right at home. We don’t take this experience lightly; we know most people do not get this opportunity to know the people here. We feel very blessed.

What a fantastic day! We left at 6 –  our guide Daniel, our spotter Jacob, and Shivani, the lion expert. We saw so much I won’t try to name it all. The highlights:

1. Two young lionesses-Nadala and Naserian. 3 year old Sisters whose mother Nabo died of a snake bite in May. These girls hadn’t been seen since that day so it was especially meaningful to be present as they were found again. They had the largest bellies I’ve ever seen-full of food. They had eaten very well the day before.

I didn’t realize how difficulties it would be to find lions. The reserve is 160 sq km and the conservancy is 400 sq km so they have a vast area and are very good at hiding. Shivani said they go weeks without seeing any.

2. A family of elephants with a 6 mo old calf drinking at the river and very near us a 1-2 week old calf and its mom. The calf was meeting other members of that family. The calf would reach its trunk up in greeting and the older elephant would touch it with its trunk in return.

3. The same cheetah and her cubs hunting. They did not catch anything because the herd of impala saw her and sounded a warning. Her cubs look good. She is thin so we hope she managed to catch something later on

We learned about tracking. They can tell not only what made the track but how long ago. “Oh, that is a four day old track.”

We have these folks to ourselves so we can go where we want and stay as long as we want. We do stay awhile watching and we see many other cars drive by a lion, take a quick shot and move on. It’s much more Interesting to watch awhile

We had breakfast out in the bush!  Truly in the bush. And we ate like royalty-pancakes, bacon, sausage, scrambled eggs, cereal, watermelon , juice and coffee. And the best part- we get to do it again tomorrow!

This afternoon we did some mission work in the Samburu village of Sasaab. This is a different tribe than the Maasai. Ewaso Lions has been working with the villages to clean up the trash. So they work with the villagers to collect the recyclables which Ewaso Lions brings to the lodge to be taken to Nairobi to be recycled. Today the women of the village collected 2100 pieces of plastic, from a village of about 100. We helped bag it.

Then one of the women graciously invited us to see the inside of her home. We also toured the village and saw how they kept their livestock at night.

I found the Samburu people to be gentle, welcoming and gracious. I am so glad we visited the village and met the people in this way, with someone who is accepted as part of their extended family  rather than show up as these strange Americans who are here to stare.

Tomorrow we’re out at 6 to unload the recycling and the we are going to find lions. Shivani said we are not stopping for elephants !  Then later in the day Shivani is taking us on a bush walk.

I cannot tell you what a different experience we are having from other guests because we are immersed with wonderful folks who are part of the community and culture.

Up early this morning for our flight to Samburu in northern Kenya. Security is amazingly tight in Nairobi-much tighter than the security Israel. Last night when we got to the hotel security personnel checked the car. Then to go into the hotel our bags went through a metal detector  like at the airport and we had to walk through one. Our driver told us it is like that at every public building – hotels, shopping malls, even grocery stores. When we arrived at the little airport for our flight, all of the security was repeated. And again leaving the airport waiting area-where we had already gone through security-we had to go through security again. As in Israel, I am made aware of freedoms I take for granted — in this case the freedom to move around freely.

But no worries, we are leaving Nairobi and going to the safety of the wild lions in Samburu!

Everyone we have come into contact with has been so nice. Last night when we got in we could not find the person who was supposed to pick us up. My supposed international phone I brought with me would not work. A wonderfully kind Kenyan woman saw our distress and used her phone to call for us. She stayed with us until we found our driver. Everyone we have met has been open and very kind.

After a one hour flight up to the desert with mountains I the distance we were met by a friendly Maasai warrior who drove us two hours to our lodge. We drive through Samburu National Reserve and Westgate Conservancy. Our first animal was an endangered Grevys Zebra!  We saw so many animals on our drive. All 5 of the Samburu Big 5 (animals found only here in Kenya)–Grevys zebra, reticulated giraffe, Somali ostrich (neck is blue), Beisa oryx and gerenuk antelope (called giraffe antelope because of its long neck). We got very close to a female cheetah and her two cubs who we learned later is the only cheetah in the area. I’m only naming a few of the animals we saw.

We are staying in a tent. Literally. However is it so luxurious we don’t want to leave. The tent flaps are closed at nite but the bathroom is open to any and all visitors of the animal variety. We aren’t allowed to walk alone after dark. A Kenyan army soldier with an automatic weapons just escorted us to dinner.

We got here in time for lunch and then Shivani Bhalla, the lion expert, came over to meet us. We spent about four hours with her getting to know her.

Shivani took us to her camp. It is truly a camp. She lives in a tent that is smaller than the one many take camping. Maasai warriors share several tents and there is another that serves as office and dining area.

She is doing amazing work and is so down to earth and personable. Most impressive is the work she is doing with the local Maasai community. She is easy to talk to and to ask anything – about lions or what is it like being the only woman in a camp with five or so Maasai warriors, no running water and no electricity. We are the only ones with her this week and she is devoting all her time to is. This is more than I dreamed of!  This is already more of an experience than I hoped it could be. She has ideas for us but is open to whatever we want to do.

Shivani is picking us up at 6 am to find LIONS and she invited us to have dinner our last night here with her and her team at her camp.

We are two very happy women tonite. I’m so excited I may not sleep !

After two long flights. I am in Kenya!  Now for only a few hours sleep. They pick us up early tomorrow for a ride to northern Kenya in a tiny plane—to the lions !

I’m ready to go! I am under 33# and that counts my hiking boots, so when I pull those out, I’m sure I’ll save a pound.

I really feel led to go to Kenya. This feels like the pinnacle of my sabbatical and I think everything up to this point has prepared me for this journey. I’m really curious what the Holy Spirit has in store for me.

Many people have asked me about Ebola. That is in western Africa and we are on the East Coast–they are very far apart. Africa is a big continent.

There are lion cubs in Samburu, which the area I’ll be going to first. I hope I see them! And I wonder what the first animal I’ll see will be? I’ll let you know!

Now…two days of traveling….ugh. Then I’ll be a world away!